Looking back on my last night in Vicenza, it was truly the perfect ending to three ridiculously awesome - for the lack of a better word - months. Sitting in Piazzetta Palladio with Duy, drinking prosecco served to us by our friend Ricky at venti-cinque, slowly sipping in silence as we watched the streams of people flow and ebb in the two piazzas. It was how the trip had begun; the most pure form of "traveling". Two friends half way around the world exploring. But this time we were not struggling to find food or friends or to understand the language. We had traveled to this city. We had lived in this city. We were comfortable in this city. And there we sat, in our Italian city, enjoying our last glass of wine together. I will never forget the pure joy of that night.
I wrote the first two sentences of this post in June, sitting in my parents hotel room in Florence, up late because I couldn't sleep. The transition between traveling and being on vacation came as soon as we left Vicenza for the Cinque Terre*. The last 8** days in Italy for me was more a time of reflection than exploration. It was also pretty emotionally rough on me, with a tough loss at home and saying goodbye to my friends. But it wasn't until now that I could figure out how to properly express myself: I wanted the myth of that last night in Vicenza to become a truth. That last night was one of those moments that is so perfect that no matter how hard I could ever try to replicate it the people and events and place could never quite be exactly the same. No matter how hard I could try to freeze my life at that moment, time just keeps rolling and life goes on.
*Parents, those last 8 days were great though. Except for the Cinque Terre. We're in agreement there though.
**Parents, I am so sorry I lost my passport and made 8 days into 10. Again. We've been over this.
So, in case you were wondering, I'm back, still alive and kickin'. I decided that it might actually be okay to keep up a blog every now and then. I'm not really convinced it is, but I do like writing, and I know the fam down in the bay likes to hear what I'm up to so why not?
Here's what I've been up to. The major highlights:
Summer:
-I lived in Eugene.
-I took French 202 and 203. They were still too easy but speaking french every day for three hours definitely helped me improve my overall grammar and vocabulary.
-I was the photographer for the Eugene Emeralds single-A short-season baseball team. The job was fun and I really like my boss, but the organization is a joke.
-I turned 21, so I learned how expensive bars are in the US.
-My roommate and I decided to "start" a "company". It's called Donc (Dunque in italiano). We "hired" our friend Kimmy to be our graphic designer. So far she's done the most work. We expect to be moving some sort of skiing related product/items of clothing in the next 20 years.
Fall:
-Still in Eugene. Taking a light load of classes: Studio, History of Shogun's Japan, Grant Proposal Writing and Rock Climbing II: Conditioning.
-My studio project is a redesign of Eugene's City Hall trying to dampen costs by reusing the existing concrete structure and building up. It's the most realistic project I think I will ever have in school because there is a real budget, real building, real site, and real people, which makes it incredibly challenging but very fun.
-Rock II is as awful as it sounds, but I like it.
-Our football team is kicking butt and taking names (take that PETER! USC's looking a little weak after what we did to you guys last weekend)... I've gone to every home game.
Which brings us to now. Life has been great the past few months, continues to be excellent now, and as it's almost ski season it seems like it can only get better right? It's amazing how time flies.
Just last week I attended and spoke at a Vicenza 2011 Study Abroad meeting for students interested in next year's program. I've held off saying this for a while now, but I can truly say that it was the greatest experience of my life. Best three months, hands down. Just sitting there and talking with my classmates about it brought back all the great memories. But it's not just reminiscing with my friends, what I learned in Europe is entering my life: from food to fashion to studio. I don't have salad dressing, only oil and vinegar. I got a fancy hoodie, that looks like an even fancier jacket. I'm more concerned with how my studio project affects the street and city fabric of Eugene than how the internal circulation works. Whether I like it or not, my spring in europe will probably continue to influence me for years.
So I pause here for a moment to write these thoughts down, reflect on the great times had, dream of the great times to come, and just keep on living.
2.7.10
Spring in Europe: Firenze
The first time I was in Firenze* I really enjoyed it. After spending two weeks in Roma, it was such a relief to be at a slower pace in a city that seemed a little bit more real. It actually seems like people actually inhabit the city: there are locals, local eateries, local specialties, etc. While Roma is constantly catering to the tourist, and constantly being epically grand, Firenze has a much more approchable feel to it in my opinion.
*that's right. I'm calling it Firenze because that's what it is. I'm not trying to sound pretentious, despite the fact that being a native english speaker it is completely pretentious to call it such. Ridicule as you wish. When I'm back I'll go back to our English interpretation: Florence.
While we were here in April we spent a few days in the city and traveled to Bologna and Sienna (aka Hogwarts South, cause that town is build for wizards by wizards I'm sure of it). While here with the group it was the usual whirlwind tour, walk here, sketch this, sketch that, move on, get yelled at in churches for taking pictures.
At the end of our stay we were given some free time, many decided to travel to the Cinque Terre or Ravenna. My original plans were to go visit Old Man Savey up in Copenhagen, but unfortunately that fell through so I just decided to relax in Firenze with Sam, Duy, Kohlton and Kim.
As much as I like people (and I like people a lot) I have either become more introverted or realized that I like more intimate interaction. I'm not all about being lost in a big crowd; a hand full of people having good conversation is just right with me. Some of my favorite moments this entire trip have been shared not with the whole group, but just a few people that I've gotten really close to this trip.
One of these small group experiences was the five of us roaming around the streets of Firenze on Notte Bianca or White Night. It is an all night festival of the arts where the museums were all open, the streets were packed wall to wall, and TONS of people were dancing. It was great. It was one of those times when you look around and realize that this. this is life. One of those I am in the midst of an adventure and I love it times.
I left Firenze happy and rested, ready to take on Vicenza and studio.
I returned to Firenze emotionally and physically exhausted.
School was over but that last week in Vicenza had taken a toll on me. It wasn't too hard saying goodbye to my classmates, I knew I'd see a few over the summer and the rest in September. What was difficult was the realization that my time in Europe was coming to a close, the program is over, "closing time" was playing in my head. What made this week more difficult was I felt like I lost so many people. Some I will see again, I promise, and one who I will never see again, and I will miss deeply.
The train ride here was comforting, like going to see an old friend to re-live good memories.
Unfortunately, however, it should be noted that Firenze has changed since I've been gone. No longer is it the place where I can walk from Santa Maria Novella to the Olt'Arno and potentially hear no English what so ever. Now I'm surprised when I hear Italian. The city has become tourist central, which makes sense but is AWFUL. I've gone most of this trip in the off season and hitting the city like this was kind of shocking. Though I haven't let it ruin my stay. In fact, this is probably the most relaxed I've finally been all trip. I know how to get around, I have nothing to do, and my parents are paying for things. Firenze is still treating me well.
The Parents and I had a little fancy night out the other night at this restaurant on the south side of the Arno River overlooking Ponte Vecchio and the Uffizi. It seems fitting to end this post with some images from the night:
Ciao ciao, Firenze.
*that's right. I'm calling it Firenze because that's what it is. I'm not trying to sound pretentious, despite the fact that being a native english speaker it is completely pretentious to call it such. Ridicule as you wish. When I'm back I'll go back to our English interpretation: Florence.
While we were here in April we spent a few days in the city and traveled to Bologna and Sienna (aka Hogwarts South, cause that town is build for wizards by wizards I'm sure of it). While here with the group it was the usual whirlwind tour, walk here, sketch this, sketch that, move on, get yelled at in churches for taking pictures.
At the end of our stay we were given some free time, many decided to travel to the Cinque Terre or Ravenna. My original plans were to go visit Old Man Savey up in Copenhagen, but unfortunately that fell through so I just decided to relax in Firenze with Sam, Duy, Kohlton and Kim.
As much as I like people (and I like people a lot) I have either become more introverted or realized that I like more intimate interaction. I'm not all about being lost in a big crowd; a hand full of people having good conversation is just right with me. Some of my favorite moments this entire trip have been shared not with the whole group, but just a few people that I've gotten really close to this trip.
One of these small group experiences was the five of us roaming around the streets of Firenze on Notte Bianca or White Night. It is an all night festival of the arts where the museums were all open, the streets were packed wall to wall, and TONS of people were dancing. It was great. It was one of those times when you look around and realize that this. this is life. One of those I am in the midst of an adventure and I love it times.
I left Firenze happy and rested, ready to take on Vicenza and studio.
I returned to Firenze emotionally and physically exhausted.
School was over but that last week in Vicenza had taken a toll on me. It wasn't too hard saying goodbye to my classmates, I knew I'd see a few over the summer and the rest in September. What was difficult was the realization that my time in Europe was coming to a close, the program is over, "closing time" was playing in my head. What made this week more difficult was I felt like I lost so many people. Some I will see again, I promise, and one who I will never see again, and I will miss deeply.
The train ride here was comforting, like going to see an old friend to re-live good memories.
Unfortunately, however, it should be noted that Firenze has changed since I've been gone. No longer is it the place where I can walk from Santa Maria Novella to the Olt'Arno and potentially hear no English what so ever. Now I'm surprised when I hear Italian. The city has become tourist central, which makes sense but is AWFUL. I've gone most of this trip in the off season and hitting the city like this was kind of shocking. Though I haven't let it ruin my stay. In fact, this is probably the most relaxed I've finally been all trip. I know how to get around, I have nothing to do, and my parents are paying for things. Firenze is still treating me well.
The Parents and I had a little fancy night out the other night at this restaurant on the south side of the Arno River overlooking Ponte Vecchio and the Uffizi. It seems fitting to end this post with some images from the night:
Ciao ciao, Firenze.
30.6.10
Spring in Europe: Vicenza and the Italian Culture
The entire time I was in Vicenza I shot less than 100 images, most of them were facades for our site model. I really regret not taking more to show you the beautiful city I lived in for 2 months, but if you just look above to the header of this blog you can see the Piazza dei Signori which I walked through on a daily basis and in which I designed a building.
I loved my time in Vicenza. I really did. While I have my complaints, living in the centro of Vicenza was a great experience. Every day I would walk along Corso Palladio - named after an architect, boo ya - through a mix of renaissance, relatively contemporary infill, and medieval remnants. Our studio was in what would have been the old roman theater (half circle; amphitheaters are full circles) of which the old fabric could be seen in the building forms. All these ideas, good and bad, new and old were constantly floating around us and as an architecture student it was interesting to be able to see so many expressions just walking to class. Vicenza also has a series of great parks, some much much much closer than others (oh don't you even act like you don't know what I'm talking about), where we played some memorable games of soccer.
Finally, what we've all been waiting for, and reminded to me by special request of John Matarrese:
Food.
Italian food is delicious. It's so funny to me how quickly I get sick of pasta when I'm cooking it for myself in Eugene compared to here in Italy*. Though it's not just pasta, it's the sauce that they put on pasta, the sauce that they put on anything else, a wide range of meats, delicious veggies, etc. Coming into this experience I was under the impression that Italians ate pasta and pizza, and well, that's kind of true, the variety which is consumed in this country puts the american diet to shame in some ways.
*When I was at Righetti - the self service restaurant that we had pre-paid cards to eat at pretty much every night - I noticed Enrico the primi guru opening a six pack of pasta and guess what. I USE THE SAME PASTA. I felt so classy and Italian for that moment. If you too want to feel classy and Italian head down to your local Costco and pick up a pack.
One of the best meals I ate the entire trip, however, was prepared by our professors, Don and Jenny. They invited students in groups of 3 or 4 over to their apartment for dinner in the first few weeks we were there and it. was. delicious. Oh, so good. Bruschetta with sun dried tomatoes and olive paste and of course copious amounts of olive oil. Artichokes simply prepared, of course with copious amounts of olive oil. Delicious pasta and veggies with copious amounts of olive oil, etc etc. Moral of the story when it comes to Italian cooking: fresh food and olive oil are always a win.
Pizza Pizza Pizza. Pizza here is delicious too! Go figure. As many of you probably know it's prepared differently, usually around 25-30cm wide pizzas are individual and come in many varieties. Many of the topping combinations are seasonal and traditional, also many with potatoes which at first I loved, then I got sick of, and now I'm just okay with. The main differences though are the crust - in italy it is super thin and delicious - and the idea that you don't add toppings based on what you like, you order a combination of toppings that comprise a certain type of pizza.
The most important of all food groups in Italy is gelato. A good friend of mine who just returned to the states said that she had some ice cream when she got back and that it was a terrible mistake. Agreed. I am going to miss gelato, oh so much. It's not only the gelato itself, in it's richness and deliciousness, it's the social idea of a gelato break. There were so many times on this trip that we all bonded over how crazy Don and Jenny were for dragging us to this or that place without time to go here or do that, or how awful the weather was, etc, all while eating gelato.
Our local gelato guy in Vicenza - Carlos - had lived in Canada and spoke english quite well and we got to know him so well that on our collective last night in Vicenza he ended up coming out for a drink with us. That guy is pretty much what I want to be like when I am older: always smiling, always up beat, very intelligent, and speaks five different languages. It was great to meet him too because the little Italian we did speak wasn't enough to begin to be immersed in the culture, and he was somewhat of a looking glass into it, and it was all thanks to gelato.
Culture.
The Italian culture is very social. Perhaps the biggest difference between Italy and the US - and perhaps Europe in general - is that people don't usually entertain in the home, they go out. Piazzas at first seemed dead to me, people would just be walking by a few people stopping to eat lunch and then I experienced the piazzas at night. Everyone was there. The whole town is out. From about 6:00 in the evening on everyone is walking around, seeing and being seen. Unless it's raining or extremely cold, the indoor seating in most bars is left vacant while the patrons are out in the piazzas sitting on the steps or at the tables conversing.
Personally I love that idea. It's an idea that the American planning and building culture has somewhat denied us for years. There is an architectural theory that what's killing the building culture in the States is the lack of a third place; people go from work to home, with no in between. Italians are all about the in between, not work and not home. Some of my best memories of the trip are sitting on the steps of the Basilica Palladiana, meeting and conversing with friends new and old.
A few notes:
If you ever plan a trip to Italy or many other places in Europe for that matter watch out for the turkish toilet. It is essentially a hole in the ground. The first one I encountered was marked "Ideal Standard" and my only thought was they couldn't be more wrong about that.
Clothing is very important here. I, a poor college student who usually wears a skiing t-shirt, jeans and vans or birkenstocks, have not exactly been regarded as the king of fashion at home. Here it's much worse. I need to get me some fancy clothes once I graduate, but thankfully for now I still live in Eugene and can get away with a lack of style. Next time I'm in Europe I will look good though, don't you worry.
While in Vicenza there were copious amounts of opportunities for the locals to get excited about soccer. However, at each opportunity the city disappointed, barely turning out anyone for the Inter v. Bayern München Champions League final, let alone the World Cup itself. Every night we were the only ones packing Ovosodo - the bar that projected each match on a big screen. Although gli Azzurri didn't exactly impress this year so maybe it's for the best.
Overall it was a great experience. I'll be back.
Spring in Europe: Oh the Places You'll Go.
I know I know. I have been pretty awful at keeping up this blog and letting you all know what's going on over here in Italy, and believe it or not, my program is over, my bags are packed and tonight is my last night in Vicenza. I'm tired, a little bit sad that it's all over, but very ready to come home. For the next 8 days I am traveling with my parents who got here a few nights ago. We're heading to the Cinque Terre, Firenze, and Milano where we fly out. It's nice to have them here and I am excited for a week in Italy just to relax and not do school, though let's face it, I'll probably fill up the remaining pages in my sketchbooks.
There has been a lot to reflect on over the past few months, I have certainly learned and experienced a lot. I have decided to - instead of doing one big finale blog post - do a series of shorter reflections on different aspects of the trip. The first is about the place I've been. I am not going to cover every city or building I visited, rather highlight a few that struck me.
Venezia
The more and more I think about this city the more ridiculous it seems. While defensively it forced a purely naval battle, it's also impossible to get anywhere fast or cheap, and the water itself is becoming the downfall of the city, sometimes flooding daily.
I have seen Venice in rain and shine, and let me tell you, it is a completely different city weather depending. Dark, depressing, and wet on top of the confusing labyrinth of up and down, earth and water, left and right that the city already is does not make for the most pleasant of experiences. In the sun however, Venice becomes perhaps one of the most beautiful places I've ever been. Riding the vaporetto through the city and out to Burano was amazing, surreal at points. While standing atop the bell tower at San Giorgio Maggiore overlooking the entire city the only thought was "wow, I really don't deserve this"*. Aside from the scenic beauty, Venezia also has Punta della Dogana, a 15th century building renovated and redesigned by Tadao Ando, one of my favorite architects. While the art in there is pretty... interesting... the architecture itself is wonderful, mixing the very soft and elegant modern concrete next to the rough and old brick masonry bearing walls. Venice will always be on my list whenever I visit Italy.
*Kohlton actually spoke this comment out loud and Don - our professor - mentioned that in Palladio's day architecture was considered the culmination of intellectual endeavors, therefore since we are at the height of intellectual thought we deserve to see the most beautiful places in the world... I guess.
Verona
There were three major places and experiences that made Verona memorable for me: seeing the finale of the Giro d'Italia, Piazza Erbe, and Castelvecchio. The final stage of the Giro was crazy, a ridiculous amount of people crowded around barriers to see their favorite cyclists fly by one-by-one. It was great, maybe some day I'll be able to see Le Tour as well.
For my Town Form class me and two classmates did a piazza study on Piazza Delle Erbe, a very large, long and narrow space formed by a diverse range of buildings, and scales. The piazza is filled with a market every day of the week which takes up the majority of the middle, and one side is completely dedicated to restaurant seating and gelato shops. It is one of my favorite spaces in Italy and I am glad I had to spend extra time there.
Castelvecchio. Architecture paradise. I am sure not everyone agrees with me on this one, because as an architect or an architecture student you have to be argumentative, but I love that building. Designed by Carlo Scarpa, it is a palimpsest of roman, medieval, renaissance, french occupation and modern architecture. The level of detail and care for each individual element in the entire composition is so elegant and beautiful. Scarpa is the master.
Vals
Switzerland is where I was meant to live. Upon arrival in the CH I was happy. It felt like I was continuously driving over Mt. Hood. Gigantic mountains all around with big Noble Fir trees, snow, rivers, valleys, etc. Perhaps some of the most surreal countryside in the world. I am already planning my trip back and perhaps seeking an internship for next year in the French speaking regions.
For the architects and architecture students out there I could just say "vals" and they would freak out and know I had an amazing time. For those of you who don't know, Vals, Switzerland is the home of Peter Zumthor's masterpiece, Therme Vals; the thermal baths. This is perhaps my favorite moment of architecture school when I realize that my assignment is to study the baths. "I just have to go sit in pools of varying temperatures and aromas while relaxing in a place generally reserved for Swiss bankers? - I can handle that."
Vals, I will see you soon, I promise.
There are so many amazing places I have seen on this trip it would get pretty ridiculous to continue too deeply. Once I'm home I'll probably tell you about them all anyways. Next up: Italian Culture.
Vals, I will see you soon, I promise.
There are so many amazing places I have seen on this trip it would get pretty ridiculous to continue too deeply. Once I'm home I'll probably tell you about them all anyways. Next up: Italian Culture.
5.5.10
Welcome to Vicenza
I know I know, You guys have barely heard about Rome, let alone Florence, Sienna, Bologna or Lucca. But I haven't written those, and a lot of interesting stuff has already happened in Vicenza, so that's what I'm going to write about now.
After much debate on how to get there, we finally got to the front of the line at Santa Maria Novella station only to find that the trip could be done before noon and for about €20 less than we had previously thought. Yahtzee.
After a few changes, quite a bit of sleep, and a few uncomfortable moments in tight spaces with our luggage we arrived in Vicenza where it was dumping buckets of rain. And I'm from Oregon, so you know it was bad. We start off with getting lost, but thankfully it's such a compact city center that it was easy enough to correct our mistake and made it to studio where we were reunited with Mom and Dad (Jenny and Don) after our 4 day break. It was nice to see them.
We met our program director (basically the caretaker for the building and the one in charge of making sure we're all okay during our stay in Vicenza), got our keys, ate some decent €5,00 pizza (drink included!) and headed over to the apartment.
With the exception of my parents' house, best accommodations I've probably ever had. Apparently a major judge for Veneto lives in our building. We have a buzzer at the front door. We're talking average middle class, but it's nice to finally be in a real place, somewhere a little more concrete. It was like we're finally home after four weeks on the road.
All the guys are in one apartment and all the girls are in another, both located at opposite ends of Corso Andrea Palladio - that's right, a street named after an architect. What a wonderful place.
That evening we had an orientation to the facilities, got new cell phones (which I immediately disassembled, removed the SIM card, and put it in my phone)*, went over rules, etc. After we got to try the self-service restaurant that we'll be most likely eating at nearly every weeknight in Vicenza. My verdict: food was good, especially the pasta e fagioli, but the worst wine ever. Like, spicy vinegar bad. Overall, avoid the wine and I should be good for the next 2 months.
*My new number is this: +39 349.241.3337. If you call me on skype when it has the 'to mobile' symbol I can receive the call for free! This is especially important since I don't have internet at my apartment. So call away! But remember most days I'll be in studio from dawn til dusk.
As you may recall, it's been raining like the world was going to end this whole time. So as we walk back to our apartment we notice that everyone is at the bridge looking at the river. Police, old ladies, kids, everyone. As it turns out the water level raised something around 2.5 meters since we'd been there. Another meter and our whole area of town would have flooded, but not knowing that the water was reaching it's high point we decided to help out by helping distribute sandbags. That's right, less than 10 hours in Vicenza and we're already doing community service. While JohnNils (roommate at home) still has the philanthropist of the year award for buying a homeless man a fish sandwich on new years, I feel like we should at least get best supporting philanthropists. Though, I must say, it was more idea than action as there were so many people and so few sandbags that each of us ended up carrying about 4 or 5 off a truck, a few more to peoples' cars or houses.
Quick side story: over night, wicked awesome thunder storm. Lightning was striking what looked and sounded like only a few blocks away, never more than a half mile away. It was great. I think Italy probably gets the Best Thunderstorms award.
This morning we had our first studio meeting. We have what I consider the dream studio slot: 9am-1pm. Freshman year we were put through the hideous 8am-12pm, and now in Eugene we're subjected to 1pm-5pm, but getting it done in the morning is so much easier. Studio itself is amazing. We're in this gigantic room with widows on both sides and an exposed truss roof. Everyone gets two desks, we're all against windows, and it is absolutely wonderful. My view is directly into the canopy of about 10 trees which is beautiful and out the right side of studio I have a nice view of medieval city fabric.
WARNING: this post is about to get realllllly boring for those of you who aren't in architecture, so I would advise to skip to the end.
Our project is a mainly civil building adjacent to Palladio's building in the central piazza. We have our choice whether we want to 'demolish' the existing building or keep it, either way there is the main piazza and two secondary piazzas to deal with on the site. The challenge is that our new project must fit in the context without mimicking the surroundings, create three areas of good public space, and facilitate better circulation between the three public areas, all while containing the program which includes public meeting facilities and administrative works. I'm quite excited for it, as I am a big fan of sloped sites and really excited to be focusing on external connections and facades. Should be a good term.
Next week we go to Verona, and Venezia (Venice) so there will definitely be a new post somewhere in there. Otherwise it's studio as usual, I'll update if anything interesting comes up. Ciao ragazzi.
After much debate on how to get there, we finally got to the front of the line at Santa Maria Novella station only to find that the trip could be done before noon and for about €20 less than we had previously thought. Yahtzee.
After a few changes, quite a bit of sleep, and a few uncomfortable moments in tight spaces with our luggage we arrived in Vicenza where it was dumping buckets of rain. And I'm from Oregon, so you know it was bad. We start off with getting lost, but thankfully it's such a compact city center that it was easy enough to correct our mistake and made it to studio where we were reunited with Mom and Dad (Jenny and Don) after our 4 day break. It was nice to see them.
We met our program director (basically the caretaker for the building and the one in charge of making sure we're all okay during our stay in Vicenza), got our keys, ate some decent €5,00 pizza (drink included!) and headed over to the apartment.
With the exception of my parents' house, best accommodations I've probably ever had. Apparently a major judge for Veneto lives in our building. We have a buzzer at the front door. We're talking average middle class, but it's nice to finally be in a real place, somewhere a little more concrete. It was like we're finally home after four weeks on the road.
All the guys are in one apartment and all the girls are in another, both located at opposite ends of Corso Andrea Palladio - that's right, a street named after an architect. What a wonderful place.
That evening we had an orientation to the facilities, got new cell phones (which I immediately disassembled, removed the SIM card, and put it in my phone)*, went over rules, etc. After we got to try the self-service restaurant that we'll be most likely eating at nearly every weeknight in Vicenza. My verdict: food was good, especially the pasta e fagioli, but the worst wine ever. Like, spicy vinegar bad. Overall, avoid the wine and I should be good for the next 2 months.
*My new number is this: +39 349.241.3337. If you call me on skype when it has the 'to mobile' symbol I can receive the call for free! This is especially important since I don't have internet at my apartment. So call away! But remember most days I'll be in studio from dawn til dusk.
As you may recall, it's been raining like the world was going to end this whole time. So as we walk back to our apartment we notice that everyone is at the bridge looking at the river. Police, old ladies, kids, everyone. As it turns out the water level raised something around 2.5 meters since we'd been there. Another meter and our whole area of town would have flooded, but not knowing that the water was reaching it's high point we decided to help out by helping distribute sandbags. That's right, less than 10 hours in Vicenza and we're already doing community service. While JohnNils (roommate at home) still has the philanthropist of the year award for buying a homeless man a fish sandwich on new years, I feel like we should at least get best supporting philanthropists. Though, I must say, it was more idea than action as there were so many people and so few sandbags that each of us ended up carrying about 4 or 5 off a truck, a few more to peoples' cars or houses.
Quick side story: over night, wicked awesome thunder storm. Lightning was striking what looked and sounded like only a few blocks away, never more than a half mile away. It was great. I think Italy probably gets the Best Thunderstorms award.
This morning we had our first studio meeting. We have what I consider the dream studio slot: 9am-1pm. Freshman year we were put through the hideous 8am-12pm, and now in Eugene we're subjected to 1pm-5pm, but getting it done in the morning is so much easier. Studio itself is amazing. We're in this gigantic room with widows on both sides and an exposed truss roof. Everyone gets two desks, we're all against windows, and it is absolutely wonderful. My view is directly into the canopy of about 10 trees which is beautiful and out the right side of studio I have a nice view of medieval city fabric.
STUDIO!
WARNING: this post is about to get realllllly boring for those of you who aren't in architecture, so I would advise to skip to the end.
Our project is a mainly civil building adjacent to Palladio's building in the central piazza. We have our choice whether we want to 'demolish' the existing building or keep it, either way there is the main piazza and two secondary piazzas to deal with on the site. The challenge is that our new project must fit in the context without mimicking the surroundings, create three areas of good public space, and facilitate better circulation between the three public areas, all while containing the program which includes public meeting facilities and administrative works. I'm quite excited for it, as I am a big fan of sloped sites and really excited to be focusing on external connections and facades. Should be a good term.
Next week we go to Verona, and Venezia (Venice) so there will definitely be a new post somewhere in there. Otherwise it's studio as usual, I'll update if anything interesting comes up. Ciao ragazzi.
27.4.10
Rome I: The Fast and the Furious
Rome is nuts. I could probably end this post right now with just that. For those of you who have been you understand. My first experience in Rome was in a taxi at 1h00 going ~140km/h on the oldest road in the city, which could perhaps even mean the oldest road in the western world. Totally bizonkers.
Our first night there we finally saw a face that we knew, the tall man himself, Sam*. It was refreshing to see a new face and hear a new voice that I could understand. That first night we stayed near the airport, slept well, and woke up late and as quickly as we could got out of the hostel before they had to kick us out.
*Sam may also be referred to as Samwise, Samwise Gamgi, Samwell, or the Big Tall Man. Sam is actually a big tall man,
We ate breakfast, I had my first cappuccino of the trip (I have not gone over 24 hours without one since. Mom, I am sorry for all the times I have criticized your coffee addiction, that stuff is good). When we got the Ciampino train station we bought our €1,30 tickets to Roma-Termini and got swindled for the first and last time. These two guys kept asking for any money to help them get to see their family, doing the whole sob story act. Duy gives them ,25¢ because he has more heart than Sam or me, and they proceeded to walk up to the counter, pull out a €100 note, and purchase a ticket. It was one of those "So that's how it's going to be, eh?" moments.
Our hostel was right next to Termini, the large train station in Rome, which isn't exactly the best spot if you're looking for upscale, though looking out of our 4th floor window (5th floor in the US) we were able to see some interesting things. Remember this for later.
The few days we had before the program was our last chance to be on our own and travel at our own pace. Traveling with Don and Jenny has been great because they can point out what's important, old, and cool, and tell you why it's important, how old it is, and why you should think it's cool. Contrastingly there is something quite rewarding about taking the time to figure it all out on your own. Like when we realized we were walking through some old ruins, and they happened to be the Termini Baths aka the Thermal Baths.
So, with that said, we found a lot of stuff that seemed cool, but we had no idea what it all was until monday.
Rome is an interesting city to explore. There are something around 7 straight streets through the entire city that were cut through Haussman style (so, like in Paris) but Rome's are much older and related to pilgrimages, and these visually connect a series of monuments which help lead one around the city. Once you get used to this, Rome is pretty easy, but until then, getting lost is just a fact of life.
The nice thing about exploring at our own pace was that we could nap. And boy oh boy did we nap. We were all exhausted from traveling, Sam without his luggage and only a change of clothes, and it was a good break before the program started. We also did a lot of socializing. We went out a few nights and met some really fun people. The most interesting of which was a wonderful Finish girl and her Italian friends. The story goes like this:
Sam is looking out the window. A girl is across the way. Waves are exchanged. She asks, "Where are you from?"
"Oregon"
"Where?"
"Where?"
"Oregon"
Now at this point I realize what is going on. She is not American, she just speaks english and has no idea where the heck Oregon is, but everyone in the world knows where California is so we usually refer to the famous state before ours.
I decide to interject "We're from the US!"
Now she gets it. The whole, where are you from? What are you doing in Rome? etc is exchanged. We learn she's from Finland, I tell her I love Helsinki. Then I yell "Do you want my phone number?" and shout the digits across the street.
That night we text each other and decide to meet up in San Lorenzo, the student district. We realize that we know only her name, her phone number, and that she's blonde. Though we actually found her! Go figure. So we hang out with her and three wonderful italian girls all night, in perhaps the most memorable night of the trip thus far. It truly summed up the first week and a half of travel: it's about who you meet and the experiences that you share.
Heini, thank you for looking out your window.
Paris, Je t'aime.
Paris. C'est ma ville.
I love that city. I have never felt more at home, with perhaps the exception of Northwest Portland. I love the language, I love the culture, and I need to spend more time there like a kid loves candy and fresh snow. Looking back the series of events that even led me to Paris, let alone where we stayed and who we met there is unbelievable.
A girl from our hostel in Madrid who I knew was French happened to be on our flight, happened to be on her way to an exam that afternoon in the city, which happened to be a nearly identical route to ours. With her help we showed up at Lamark-Caulaincourt station, climbed the 112 steps, and gazed upon the beautiful Montmartre. The view was idyllic. Across the street was a café where dozens were enjoying the afternoon sun, drinking coffee and wine. Between the two buildings was a steep set of stairs connecting Rue Lamark to it's norther neighbor. The buildings were all uniformly tall with evenly spaced windows, first floor retail, and shutters, yet each having it's own unique character; the perfect example of the Parisian model.
Needless to say, I was completely happy before taking more than three steps on the sidewalk.
Our Hostel was on Square Caulaincourt off of Rue Caulaincourt. Next door to our hostel was a restaurant with outdoor seating along the square and across the street was a bakery with the best gateau (cake) i have ever had. The view from our room overlooked a large stair case lined with trees and street lights.
Duy and I did not exactly have the stereotypical tourist experience in France. Our goal while traveling was to integrate into the culture. If we were spoken to in French I would translate for him but continue to respond in French. While my skill in French sufficed for survival, I was actually disappointed about my overall ability to communicate more than a simple food or drink order, where I was from, etc.
To keep this from going for pages I'll list a few highlights of our trip:
The first night we walked up to Sacré Coeur, a church built soon after the turn of the century in a composite of many styles with large masonry domes making it seem much more permanent. It was built at the highest point in the city and has perhaps the best view save that from the top of the Eiffel Tower (which we did not actually end up going to).
The next day we went to le Musée d'Orsay, which is perhaps my favorite museum in the entire world. The building is a renovated train station which has been beautifully transformed into the impressionist museum. The central area is filled with sculpture, which is beautiful but I find less interesting. The best part is that one can turn one corner and see Van Gogh, turn another and see Monet, turn another and see Renoir, etc. All of my favorite painters in one museum; it's hard to complain about that.
After Musée d'Orsay we walked over to the Louvre, which can actually be seen from the windows in the d'Orsay, just across Le Seine. We did not actually go in the Louvre, we only had a few days there and we figured that we'd rather spend them being a part of the city rather than looking at all the old stolen art (as my professor said the other day, "The Mona Lisa wasn't painted in France, how do you think it got there?"). We walked around the gardens for a while then proceeded to walk down the non-commercial part of the Champs-Elysée. As perfect and grand as it was, I wasn't too fond of the area. It seemed too big, too much was covered in gold, and there weren't enough people to fill the space. It just wasn't exactly comfortable space.
The next day we walked and took the metro around to a few destinations we wanted to see, the most impressive of which was perhaps the Opera. It is a beautiful building with incredible detailing. The new opéra building near the Bastille is no where near as interesting or exciting.
For lunch we stopped at the restaurant famous for French Onion soup called Au Pied de Cochon. This soup was sooooooo good. It comes in perhaps the largest soup bowl I saw in Paris (which is about American sized, portions are smaller there) and it is completely covered in delicious cheese. We're talking inches of cheese. Below was the most delicious soup ever. As Ferris Beuller says, if you have the means, I highly recommend you pick some up, it is so choice.
That evening we explored and walked down to the Moulin Rouge which was only a 15 minute walk from our hostel. As interesting as that place could be, it is not at all. For as much infamy as it may have had, it's hard to think of a place as morally questionable when people that look like your parents are paying €300 for a ticket to see a show there. It's basically Paris' version of Vegas, condensed and perhaps slightly classier.
The following day we had to head out in the afternoon so we just walked around Montmartre and really explored the minor streets. Up near the Sacré Coeur I decided to complete step one in becoming Parisian, I got two scarves*. We also ran into the produce market from Amélie, saw some interesting buildings, and really got to know our neighborhood. I can honestly I could see myself living there if such an opportunity would present itself.
*In the States I rarely consider a scarf a masculine fashion accessory, though since I've been in Europe, I've worn one almost every day. They are awesome. They can keep you warm or shade your neck from the sun and even rain, they make any outfit look 10-30% classier, not to mention they are cheap. So I am all about the scarf now. Three in my collection so far and growing.
Well, this post has gone on long enough. I have uploaded some photos to Flickr which will aid in understanding why I love Paris so much. So in summation: Paris=Favorite City. Going to live there some day.
I love that city. I have never felt more at home, with perhaps the exception of Northwest Portland. I love the language, I love the culture, and I need to spend more time there like a kid loves candy and fresh snow. Looking back the series of events that even led me to Paris, let alone where we stayed and who we met there is unbelievable.
A girl from our hostel in Madrid who I knew was French happened to be on our flight, happened to be on her way to an exam that afternoon in the city, which happened to be a nearly identical route to ours. With her help we showed up at Lamark-Caulaincourt station, climbed the 112 steps, and gazed upon the beautiful Montmartre. The view was idyllic. Across the street was a café where dozens were enjoying the afternoon sun, drinking coffee and wine. Between the two buildings was a steep set of stairs connecting Rue Lamark to it's norther neighbor. The buildings were all uniformly tall with evenly spaced windows, first floor retail, and shutters, yet each having it's own unique character; the perfect example of the Parisian model.
Needless to say, I was completely happy before taking more than three steps on the sidewalk.
Our Hostel was on Square Caulaincourt off of Rue Caulaincourt. Next door to our hostel was a restaurant with outdoor seating along the square and across the street was a bakery with the best gateau (cake) i have ever had. The view from our room overlooked a large stair case lined with trees and street lights.
Duy and I did not exactly have the stereotypical tourist experience in France. Our goal while traveling was to integrate into the culture. If we were spoken to in French I would translate for him but continue to respond in French. While my skill in French sufficed for survival, I was actually disappointed about my overall ability to communicate more than a simple food or drink order, where I was from, etc.
To keep this from going for pages I'll list a few highlights of our trip:
The first night we walked up to Sacré Coeur, a church built soon after the turn of the century in a composite of many styles with large masonry domes making it seem much more permanent. It was built at the highest point in the city and has perhaps the best view save that from the top of the Eiffel Tower (which we did not actually end up going to).
The next day we went to le Musée d'Orsay, which is perhaps my favorite museum in the entire world. The building is a renovated train station which has been beautifully transformed into the impressionist museum. The central area is filled with sculpture, which is beautiful but I find less interesting. The best part is that one can turn one corner and see Van Gogh, turn another and see Monet, turn another and see Renoir, etc. All of my favorite painters in one museum; it's hard to complain about that.
After Musée d'Orsay we walked over to the Louvre, which can actually be seen from the windows in the d'Orsay, just across Le Seine. We did not actually go in the Louvre, we only had a few days there and we figured that we'd rather spend them being a part of the city rather than looking at all the old stolen art (as my professor said the other day, "The Mona Lisa wasn't painted in France, how do you think it got there?"). We walked around the gardens for a while then proceeded to walk down the non-commercial part of the Champs-Elysée. As perfect and grand as it was, I wasn't too fond of the area. It seemed too big, too much was covered in gold, and there weren't enough people to fill the space. It just wasn't exactly comfortable space.
The next day we walked and took the metro around to a few destinations we wanted to see, the most impressive of which was perhaps the Opera. It is a beautiful building with incredible detailing. The new opéra building near the Bastille is no where near as interesting or exciting.
For lunch we stopped at the restaurant famous for French Onion soup called Au Pied de Cochon. This soup was sooooooo good. It comes in perhaps the largest soup bowl I saw in Paris (which is about American sized, portions are smaller there) and it is completely covered in delicious cheese. We're talking inches of cheese. Below was the most delicious soup ever. As Ferris Beuller says, if you have the means, I highly recommend you pick some up, it is so choice.
That evening we explored and walked down to the Moulin Rouge which was only a 15 minute walk from our hostel. As interesting as that place could be, it is not at all. For as much infamy as it may have had, it's hard to think of a place as morally questionable when people that look like your parents are paying €300 for a ticket to see a show there. It's basically Paris' version of Vegas, condensed and perhaps slightly classier.
The following day we had to head out in the afternoon so we just walked around Montmartre and really explored the minor streets. Up near the Sacré Coeur I decided to complete step one in becoming Parisian, I got two scarves*. We also ran into the produce market from Amélie, saw some interesting buildings, and really got to know our neighborhood. I can honestly I could see myself living there if such an opportunity would present itself.
*In the States I rarely consider a scarf a masculine fashion accessory, though since I've been in Europe, I've worn one almost every day. They are awesome. They can keep you warm or shade your neck from the sun and even rain, they make any outfit look 10-30% classier, not to mention they are cheap. So I am all about the scarf now. Three in my collection so far and growing.
Well, this post has gone on long enough. I have uploaded some photos to Flickr which will aid in understanding why I love Paris so much. So in summation: Paris=Favorite City. Going to live there some day.
19.4.10
Madrid: The Wild West
If I'd had my camera with me, you'd be looking at the most delicious place of meat you've ever seen. This thing was HUUUUGE. Steak, Pork, Bacon, Sausage, everything that should ever comprise the meals of men. It was sitting around and eating this that our friend from Boston who was circumnavigating the world declared Madrid as the Texas of Europe. People are killing bulls for sport, eating big plates of meat, and drinking like crazy. I don't know if Texas was the perfect comparison, but Madrid is definitely the Wild West.
Saturday, the 10th was the whole reason we wanted to be in Madrid, for football (I've found that when we call it soccer over here I can see the wheels of judgement rolling and the eyes of judgement staring, so from now on it's football or calcio (cal-chee-oh)). That day we met a group of students from Kansas a few of whom met Duy, Greg and I for dinner at our favorite Tapas bar and proceeded to watch the game there for the first half and at an Irish Pub for the second.
We were packed into this little bar, everyone in there had a beer in hand, intently watching the game and shouting profanity in tens of languages* at the televisions; this is how football is meant to be watched. While Madrid lost, this did not put a damper on the evening for the city. It kept rolling right on through 6h00 (that's in the morning) like normal.
*While there were some well strung together sentences in French and Spanish that i could understand, the British are gods of the profane arts. I have never heard such colorful profanity used so eloquently and articulately. It was truly beautiful.
I have found through traveling that the experiences shared with others seem to be much more rich than the places and activities by themselves. Traveling is not all about going and seeing everything to put it in the scrap book, I believe it's about meeting and understanding people from all over the world, sharing experiences and cultures, even if they happen to be a neighbor at home, their shared experiences will enhance one's own.
We met a lot of new friends in Spain, some I will never see again, and with a few I have already planned trips to Smith Rock and Mt. Baker. As I said earlier, English speakers meant the world to me in Spain, and these people were truly our best friends for the few days that we knew them. Our first night there and for the next day we spend time with our friend from California who showed us around, spoke the language, and really eased the transition from the US to EU. We joked that if not for her we'd probably have starved as we couldn't figure out the names of food.
On Sunday I met my new climbing and skiing buddy and a b.arch graduate, both from the States. I think that day of all in Madrid I will never forget. It started with a long trek around the city with Duy where we got to experience the beautiful parks and see new parts of the city we hadn't been to yet. Back at the hostel I met a girl who had the 'stare of exhaustion'* and nearly immediately after a brief conversation asked if I wanted to go to a bull fight. I would have been crazy to say no.
*You can always tell an American by their facial expression, their clothing, and their luggage. Americans will laugh and smile much more in public not to mention make eye contact. If eyes lock for more than a second you either need to go and talk to that girl (and hopefully you speak her language), or they are an American hanging on to every last syllable you have just uttered in their native language. Americans are almost always wearing travel clothes, no scarves, and are the only people that ever wear shorts this time of year. Americans will also either carry big backpacks (though so do the Germans so be careful) or large rolling suit cases. As bad as we may stand out, we can always find each other in a pinch over here when we need the comfort of English and a little of our own culture.
The bull fight excursion and night that followed is perhaps the most impressive experience of Madrid. The culture around the fight is incredibly deeply rooted in Spanish culture. The amount of pride the spectators and competitors show is astounding. A man's spirit can be crushed by a poor performance. As bloody* as it may be, I can truly say that I appreciate the art of the matadors.
*Last side note: we didn't know they killed the bull! That's right. I don't know how we missed that little tid bit, but for all those who don't know, they kill the bull. That's like, the whole point.
As much as Madrid might be like the Wild West with it's rambunctious partying, meat eating and animal slaughtering, it is a beautiful city. The parks there are absolutely amazing, rivaling the beauty of Portland's, though in a much different style. The buildings all have a consistency yet differ enough to give the city rhythm and flow that is very comforting and beautiful.
It was a beautiful four days with great friends. On to Paris.
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