30.6.10

Spring in Europe: Oh the Places You'll Go.

I know I know.  I have been pretty awful at keeping up this blog and letting you all know what's going on over here in Italy, and believe it or not, my program is over, my bags are packed and tonight is my last night in Vicenza.  I'm tired, a little bit sad that it's all over, but very ready to come home.  For the next 8 days I am traveling with my parents who got here a few nights ago.  We're heading to the Cinque Terre, Firenze, and Milano where we fly out.  It's nice to have them here and I am excited for a week in Italy just to relax and not do school, though let's face it, I'll probably fill up the remaining pages in my sketchbooks.

There has been a lot to reflect on over the past few months, I have certainly learned and experienced a lot.  I have decided to - instead of doing one big finale blog post - do a series of shorter reflections on different aspects of the trip.  The first is about the place I've been.  I am not going to cover every city or building I visited, rather highlight a few that struck me.

Venezia

The more and more I think about this city the more ridiculous it seems.  While defensively it forced a purely naval battle, it's also impossible to get anywhere fast or cheap, and the water itself is becoming the downfall of the city, sometimes flooding daily.

I have seen Venice in rain and shine, and let me tell you, it is a completely different city weather depending.  Dark, depressing, and wet on top of the confusing labyrinth of up and down, earth and water, left and right that the city already is does not make for the most pleasant of experiences.  In the sun however, Venice becomes perhaps one of the most beautiful places I've ever been.  Riding the vaporetto through the city and out to Burano was amazing, surreal at points.  While standing atop the bell tower at San Giorgio Maggiore overlooking the entire city the only thought was "wow, I really don't deserve this"*.  Aside from the scenic beauty, Venezia also has Punta della Dogana, a 15th century building renovated and redesigned by Tadao Ando, one of my favorite architects.  While the art in there is pretty... interesting... the architecture itself is wonderful, mixing the very soft and elegant modern concrete next to the rough and old brick masonry bearing walls.  Venice will always be on my list whenever I visit Italy.

*Kohlton actually spoke this comment out loud and Don - our professor - mentioned that in Palladio's day architecture was considered the culmination of intellectual endeavors, therefore since we are at the height of intellectual thought we deserve to see the most beautiful places in the world... I guess. 

Verona

There were three major places and experiences that made Verona memorable for me: seeing the finale of the Giro d'Italia, Piazza Erbe, and Castelvecchio.  The final stage of the Giro was crazy, a ridiculous amount of people crowded around barriers to see their favorite cyclists fly by one-by-one.  It was great, maybe some day I'll be able to see Le Tour as well.

For my Town Form class me and two classmates did a piazza study on Piazza Delle Erbe, a very large, long and narrow space formed by a diverse range of buildings, and scales.  The piazza is filled with a market every day of the week which takes up the majority of the middle, and one side is completely dedicated to restaurant seating and gelato shops.  It is one of my favorite spaces in Italy and I am glad I had to spend extra time there.

Castelvecchio.  Architecture paradise.  I am sure not everyone agrees with me on this one, because as an architect or an architecture student you have to be argumentative, but I love that building.  Designed by Carlo Scarpa, it is a palimpsest of roman, medieval, renaissance, french occupation and modern architecture.  The level of detail and care for each individual element in the entire composition is so elegant and beautiful.  Scarpa is the master.

Vals

Switzerland is where I was meant to live.  Upon arrival in the CH I was happy.  It felt like I was continuously driving over Mt. Hood. Gigantic mountains all around with big Noble Fir trees, snow, rivers, valleys, etc.  Perhaps some of the most surreal countryside in the world.  I am already planning my trip back and perhaps seeking an internship for next year in the French speaking regions.

For the architects and architecture students out there I could just say "vals" and they would freak out and know I had an amazing time.  For those of you who don't know, Vals, Switzerland is the home of Peter Zumthor's masterpiece, Therme Vals; the thermal baths.  This is perhaps my favorite moment of architecture school when I realize that my assignment is to study the baths.  "I just have to go sit in pools of varying temperatures and aromas while relaxing in a place generally reserved for Swiss bankers? - I can handle that."


Vals, I will see you soon, I promise.




There are so many amazing places I have seen on this trip it would get pretty ridiculous to continue too deeply.  Once I'm home I'll probably tell you about them all anyways.  Next up: Italian Culture.

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